Meal: breakfast, lunch | Accommodation: not included

The next morning we offer the option of another trek to an old temple site before visiting the River of a Thousand Lingas, where small phalluses are carved into the riverbed itself and representations of Shiva and Vishnu. There is a classic waterfall further downstream which the perfect place to cool off after exploring is and nearby is a small, jungle-clad temple called Prasat Krau Romeas. Wat Pre Ang Thom is a focus of pilgrimage for Khmers during religious festivals and the large reclining Buddha carved into a huge sandstone boulder here offers spectacular views across the lush jungle. We enjoy a local lunch before returning by road to Siem Reap.

Meal: lunch, dinner | Accommodation: safari tent

We travel to Phnom Kulen, the sacred mountain that was the birthplace of the Khmer empire. It was here that Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java in 802AD, setting the stage for the glories of the Angkor-era that was to follow. We travel by vehicle to the busy settlement of Preah Ang Thom before transferring to local motorcycle to explore the mountain, including some remote jungle sites such as the brick temple of Damrei Krab and the early pyramid temple of Rom Cheng, which  is believed to be the temple where the devaraja (god-king) ceremony actually took place, where Jayavarman II proclaimed himself the earthly incarnation of Shiva.

We continue to the striking stone guardian animals of Sra Damrei, which include a life-size stone elephant, before descending to the ‘bat cave’, a complex of Hindu and Buddhist shrines hidden beneath the rockface. We then ascend to an impressive viewpoint that offers panoramic views of lowland Siem Reap Province and continue to our camp location with panoramic views of lowland Siem Reap province below. After a catered dinner under the stars, we retire for the night in our safari tent.